Eating New Orleans

N'awlins. We high-tailed it out of Austin and arrived in the city on the water around 2pm, giving us a hefty amount of time to get to know the place.

We had purposely withheld any major food consumption as we had high hopes for good grub. Our lovely neighbor had spent quite a lot of time in New Orleans so we went to him first with the question, what do we do with only an evening? In response he sent us a list as long as the boot of restaurants, both casual and high end to indulge in.

Out of the car and on the streets we had our stomach set on Po' Boys. We were staying just north of the French Quarter and our neighbors suggestions seemed to be just west of that, according to the animated map we were given at check in. Note to future visitors - these maps are not drawn to scale. Coming New York we tend to assume that most cities are walk able. So we set off in the blazing and sticky 3 o'clock heat in search of a few dive restaurants. We walked about about a mile before calling the place to find out that, no, it was definitely not walkable and about 4 more miles east.

Deflated and famished, we headed back to the French Quarter, accosted a sweet-southern-accented gentleman walking a dog to find out some recommended/quick local fare. He recommended ACME and Felix's Seafood. We went with the later, ordered two Po' Boys, onion rings and drinks. They were good, not great, but then again we had plopped down in the epicenter of toursita-New Orleans. Stuffed and thinking more clearly we headed back out into the Quarter to stroll the streets. Being a Saturday it was like Las Vegas only more damp. Tons of college aged and, regrettably, middle aged, toursits happily and sloppily scarfing down the to-go drinks found on every corner. Maybe if we had more time or hadn't been eating our way through three previous states, we would have been more game to enjoy the day time drinking but as it was we were still full and a little inpatient.

Still on the look out for local good we did find Cafe Du Monde (also toursity, but endearingly so) where for just $2 you can order three freshly fried donut-type things doused in powdered sugar - beignets, I believe they're called. The street music was great, the clientele were lovely and the donuts were DE-LISH.

Next up we found our way to the St. Charles street car, as recommended for some New Orleans sightseeing. It's about 13.5 miles, according to guides, and you just sit and enjoy the gorgeous New Orleans architecture. We moved west of the Quarter through residential areas and then through the campuses of Loyola and Tulane. Some of the residential houses were just amazing - tall and slender windows and sweeping porches. Swoon. I half expected to come across the Real World New Orleans house, but only roudy college students hanging off of second-story balconies - a close second.

Dinner was redemption. Finally realizing that New Orleans may just be a driving city we returned to our hotel to shower and primp, got in our car and headed out (down? over? I'm not entirely sure where it was located) to Pascal's Manale, a hot spot recommended by our neighbor. it boasted the original and best grilled shrimp so we ordered that up along with an appetizer of some sort of roasted seafood dip, gumbo and asparagus. It was delicious. I'm not even one for seafood but I went at the shrimp - peeling them with my bar fingers - like an animal. Their little beady eyes didn't bother me at all. Those little lifeless legs? Didn't even notice. The trail of shrimp feces? Alright that gave me pause but I pressed on and enjoyed ever minute of it. We were event bibbed in protection against all the juicy flavor. And, because it seemed to be a foodie tradition, we enjoyed some bread pudding for dinner. Also something I never thought I'd dig, but it was delicious - smothered in this brandy butter sauce that I would like to live in.

I can't say that I get New Orleans. If I ever go again I will need to do more research and get more tours, but at the close of the day with a very full and happy stomach, I'd say it was well worth the southern drive.

We're about to roll into Memphis. Passing through Memphis and into Tennessee - the states tick on as do the last of our road trip days. We're waisting no time and heading straight to Graceland. I cannot wait for all the kitch not to mention the BBQ. The eating continues.