Not that doing so is the easiest or, rather, cheapest. You have to pay $8 for parking and a hot $27 for the basic mansion tour (audio equipment included). I won't deny my vague attraction to 'The King' mostly for his intrinsic connection to a certain era and a lot of ephemera, but this seemed a bit much.
Let me say this, my friends, the expense, the time, the drive - it is all worth it.
With the purr of an NPR-voiced narrator guiding me from the twin peacock glass windows in the living room to the endearingly gaudy meditation garden at the end, I got to know Elvis (the PG-rated version). There's his late 70's decorating style (each room had a theme), his truly ridiculous stage outfits (who brought Elvis and the jumpsuit together?), and his still-down-home-persistence. His parents and grandmother lived with him and he gave money to charities that run the gamut (girl scouts to old folks homes). He's huge, absurd, talented and in his best years, a genuine cutie-pants. So I walked through his estate, lived Elvis, loved Elvis and, at the end, mourned Elvis. I might have been a little teary-eyed, which I made up for by purchasing armfuls of Elvis paraphernalia. I am a sucker, I'll admit it, but this tour was definitely a highlight.
On to Bar-B-Que. No, I'm jumping ahead. We went to Sun Studios next (Stax was closed) and got a very entertaining guided tour through the recording studio's early history - Howlin' Wolf, Carl Perkins, Johnny Cash, Roy Orbison and, of course, Elvis Presley. Throughout the tour our guide would offer a behind-the-scenes story along with an original recording. It was pretty awesome. R took enough photos for us to recreate the studio back home in a diorama and, again, we left with postcards, stickers abound.
Now we get to the Bar-B-Que. We hit up Central BBQ - slow roasted southern mesquite. We ordered a rack for two with half wet and half dry and four (yes 4) sides. It was messy, succulent and delicious. We both preferred the dry (so that we can dip in our own sauces), but I have to admit that The Salt Lick still took the cake (or the charcoal?). Though Central, if you are ever in Memphis, should definitely be hit up.
In an attempt to walk off our constant fullness we headed to Beale street, which was much like Bourbon street - a once cool street with loads of history that is now overrun by the opportunity to get waisted. We strolled through and into the historic district and saw, but were not able to go in, the National Civil Rights Museum. This was amazing and we so regret missing its open hours. The building was created with the Lorraine Motel, which is where MLK was shot. Outside his motel room (room 306) is a flower memorial and two amazing classic cars from the 60s (we weren't sure if they were his or just for show). It was a scene filled with pregnant pause; you cannot help but look at this building and think of all that rich history steeped in strong convictions and laced with mourning and hope. It really was cool.
Returning to Beale street with the blinking lights and rowdy crowds (though there was some good street music) R & I couldn't help but feel a sadness - something like looking at and knowing of a city that has such a great history and bore such incredible people and events but has had to sell itself out in some ways to the masses. But, no matter what, Memphis really impressed us both. There is a ton of great and interesting things to see that definitely overrule the toursita nature of the contemporary city. So go try it out, if you have the time or means.
This morning, once again up and at 'em. Off to Nashville, where we hit a new low: eating fried chicken before 11 a.m. R did some research and one of the places to eat in Nashville is a little meat-ery called Arnolds, rated 'Best meat 'n 3' by some unknown source. For those Nor' Easterners, this means you choose a meat (friend chicken, roast beef, et al) and three sides. We both had fried chicken, collard greens, green beans, mac & cheese and a side salad (that was extra, but we were desperate).
As food was the priority, we found ourselves pressed for time to see the city at all. We hit up the lobby and the gift shop of the Country Music Hall of Fame and Broadway where we found the Honkey Tonks, Hatch Show Print and a few record stores. We glanced and strolled just a bit and head back to the car. Which is where you'll find us now.
We are just a few hours away from R's parent's home in Big Stone Gap, VA. We don't even need to reference directions any longer as R recognizes the highways and knows his way home from here. I guess this means we're nearly done! I cannot believe it.
Tonight, we will dine on the best Indian food ever (provided by Mrs. Saha) and sleep away the hours in the car. Tomorrow we hope to get a little run in, eat some more and then head to DC.
One may notice that the latter part of our trip has seemed like a tour of Southern cuisine. We couldn't help it. The food in the south was some of the best and most regionally unique that we've had. It seemed the best way to get to know those cities and states. But as we creep into the North East I think our tour of food will come to an end, which is really a relief as our vacation clothes are getting a little tight and we're too broke to purchase anything new.
Time for a detox, but first some chicken curry.
Image highlights
The cars outside of the National Civil Rights Museum (hot, right?)
A young Elvis (hello, lover)
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1 comment:
you know I was born in Memphis but I still have never visited Graceland? That's my dirty little secret. Boo--your trip's over. Yay--that means you'll be in Bklyn soon!
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